British fashion label Erdem is launching its first menswear collection. Over 15 years, Erdem has built an independent house of bold fashion for women. For his first menswear collection, Erdem has grounded his collection in the wardrobe of Derek Jarman, with the mood and palette of Patrick Prockter’s paintings. As with his womenswear, he has explored the interplay of contrasting elements and opposing feelings: pieces are louche but highly crafted; elegant and comfortable; grungy yet refined simultaneously.

“The idea of menswear has been in my mind for some time,” explains Erdem: “I have always been interested in the conversation and exchange between male and female expression. As our womenswear collections have expanded, I’ve loved how male members of my team wear pieces in different ways. The boundaries between womenswear and menswear are evermore fluid and exciting. I have imagined my mercurial protagonist having a younger brother; he is wearing her clothes in his own way.”